The best men’s watches for any occasion

The Seiko Turtle is a popular choice for a reason. It’s a certified dive watch with a case shape that will fit almost anyone, a solid workhorse mechanical movement, and fun styling that brings a bit of levity to an otherwise serious tool watch. Even better, if you don’t mind spending a little extra, you can easily find special edition watches with textured dials and unusual colors. This was one of the most recommended watches for this article, and we loved this watch so much that it made our list of the best dive watches under $500.

The watch case is nearly the same width as its height, making it far more wearable for people who don’t have large wrists, thanks in part to the cushion-shaped case. Another cool feature specific to this iteration of the Turtle is the “Pepsi” color scheme that’s preferred by the Professional Association of Diving Instructors (PADI). This red and blue design not only serves the practical purpose of highlighting the 15-minute quadrant of the dive-time bezel, but also adding an extra splash of color. But don’t let the attractive packaging fool you, this is a serious tool watch as well, carrying an ISO-certified “diver’s” mark that shows that this is the perfect choice for the serious scuba diver.

It’s not all sunshine though, and this watch has some quirks that are just inherent to the world of Seiko. The crystal (glass over the dial) is simple mineral glass, in a time when even sub-$200 watches like our budget pick use synthetic sapphire, which is effectively scratch-proof. The bracelet is also not the most premium option, with a stamped clasp and false links that are less flexible than a true oyster-style bracelet. This adds a possible expense of getting a better bracelet which, along with the expense of getting a better crystal, pushes the price point of this watch higher. Finally, the cushion case isn’t for everyone, especially for those who prefer a more modern appearance, which usually means not something that was popular in the early 1970s.

The Orient Kamasu Gen 1 is a totally original dive watch that has a sapphire crystal, an in-house movement, and it’s less than $200. I could leave the review there, but the reality is that my editors would kill me. Orient is the best-kept secret in affordable watches, and the Kamasu is no exception. This is the Gen 1 variant, which features a more subtle dial texture and trapezoidal hour markers that I actually prefer over the dots of the newer variant. This version linked above comes in a lovely petrol blue color, which is my favorite color, but you can still find them in almost any color variant to suit your tastes.

The luminescence on this watch is fantastic, taking advantage of the fact that Orient is owned by the Seiko-Epson Group to use Seiko Lumibrite, which is regarded as some of the best stuff on the market to make your watch glow in the dark. The fact that this also has a sapphire crystal under $200 is a huge achievement as well, given that you can easily spend twice that and get mineral glass. I can’t stress enough how important it is that a watch at this price point have an original design, because while you can easily get innumerable Rolex, Omega, and Seiko ripoffs from China, something that not only eschews plagiarism, but the sensibilities of a lot of dive watches in general is very welcome.

The biggest issue with the Kamasu is that it’s not a “true” dive watch, meaning that although it has 200m of water resistance, a unidirectional dive time bezel, and all the luminescence and markings that are required, it’s not submitted for diver’s certification. This might be a sticking point for some people, especially hardcore divers, so it’s something to consider. Also, the bezel is somewhat stiff and difficult to operate, especially compared to ISO-approved diver’s watches. The bracelet is another point of contention for me, being once again a false link bracelet with a stamped clasp, and folded endlinks, meaning it’s on the rattle-y side. Luckily, Strapcode makes a replacement bracelet (that I immediately purchased for mine), but that’s an extra $90 to consider, which lowers the value proposition of this watch somewhat. A final minor gripe is that the sapphire crystal doesn’t have any anti-reflective coating on it, which means that you might encounter glare issues in direct sunlight.

I had always told myself that I’d never buy a Rolex. They’re overpriced, the price is mostly due to the demand, you have to go on a waitlist, and you can get much better watches for a similar price. But a Tudor? I just might. Tudor is owned by the same company as Rolex, and offers a chance to own watches with the same DNA style for less, due to being more mass-produced. However, they are no less well-designed and have been used by professionals for actual use many times, including in the military. So these aren’t necessarily outright copies of Rolexes as much as they are actually attainable variants that perform almost all of the same functions for less.

Tudor is no budget brand and has been a mainstay in its own right for decades. The Heritage watch is a great example of this, resembling classic divers from the 1950s and 1960s with features like a bezel that’s only stepped in the first quarter, bronze-tone hands, and other touches that really hearken back to the middle of the century. This is a watch with real Rolex DNA too, and if you don’t care for something this retro, you can look at the innumerable Black Bay variants that span from GMT watches to racing chronographs. Tudor watches are also watches with real military heritage as well, with Tudor producing licensed submariners that were issued to French Marine Nationale divers, Canadian divers, British Special Boat Service, Jamaican Divers, and even U.S. Navy SEALs. Their weird hands with the square marker on the hour hand, known as a “snowflake,” were specifically selected due to their visibility in low light conditions and murky water. All in all, it’s a supremely cool watch with a lot of history and heritage behind it, and it’s one of the coolest lineages of watches to own.

Unfortunately, the biggest downside of owning a Tudor is that oftentimes you spend a lot of time explaining how it’s basically a Rolex, but not really. Because yes, Tudor is owned by the same company and yes, it has access to a lot of the same parts and techniques, but it doesn’t have the Rolex crown. So for many people, it’s roughly one-third the cost of a Rolex with none of the clout. Even for people who don’t care about what others think of their watch choices, the styling is controversial. The retro look isn’t for everyone, and that’s okay, but Tudor has gone all-in on things like the snowflake handset and retro styling, meaning that if you want a more modern-looking watch, you might have to look elsewhere.

The Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 is so 1970s, it comes with a Mach 1 Mustang, a disco ball, and upholstery made of Corinthian Leather. This style of watch is back in a big way, with watches like the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak popularizing the Gerald Genta style of design with hard angles, integrated bracelets, and straight lines. However, the PRX isn’t just a Royal Oak Royal Ripoff, it’s a watch that takes that design language and goes in its own direction, opting instead for a smooth circular bezel to contrast the waffle dial, and gently sloped tapering links that make this watch wear more like a bracelet than anything. Best of all, it’s a completely unusual Swiss design and is probably the coolest affordable watch that money can buy. I personally own one, and it’s one of my favorite watches to wear for almost any occasion, but especially the dressy ones.

The PRX demands attention way more than a watch this size should, owing in no small part to the fine details that build an impressive package. Envision the continuous line of the bracelet that merges with the case, accented by the smooth, polished bezel reflecting against the vertically brushed case, held by the polished chamfered edges, and subtle polishing in between the links of the bracelet, playing with the light as you move your wrist. Finally, the dial texture, symmetrical and grid-shaped, looks like a sea of white chocolate bars. All this is to say that it’s a beautifully-designed watch in a way that you don’t often see at this price point. It’s also not just a looker, but also a high performer, with a Powermatic 80 movement housed within the gorgeous exterior, the 80 indicating the number of hours that the movement can run without needing to be rewound. The movement also features a quick-set date, and the entire apparatus is visible through the rear of the case back. Finally, this is a watch that you can wear on other occasions, like the beach, given that it features 100 meters of water resistance, meaning that it’s not a simple dress watch by any stretch of the imagination.

Just because it’s not technically a strict dress watch doesn’t mean that it’s not in its element as a dress watch. One of the biggest limitations is that this thing has miserable luminescence. Almost nonexistent. That’s not a huge issue when you can shine a light on your watch to see the time, but for a watch that has 1970s sport watch DNA, it’s not exciting. Another issue is the bracelet. It’s a semi-integrated bracelet with quick-detach spring bars that are a pain to remove, but which reveal a totally proprietary opening. You won’t be buying different bracelets and straps from other retailers unless you know a custom manufacturer of leather straps, so if you don’t like the stock bracelet, you’re out of luck. Finally, this watch wears far larger than the stated diameter, owing in no small part to the long lug width of the integrated bracelet, which helps keep the lines of the watch continuous and also prevents it from being compact.

Once again, Orient watches is on this list for being the best in budget watches, unseating parent company Seiko from its former throne with this watch that just screams mid-century goodness. The Orient Bambino is a watch that makes many people’s budget choice lists for a good reason, and that’s because it delivers timeless style for well under $200. Best of all, if the color linked here isn’t for you, Orient makes so many different color schemes that you’re bound to find something.

Mid-century watches prioritized rounded lines, bubble crystals, and grandfather clock-style Roman numerals, with plain indices also being an option, and the Bambino offers either one. Channeling classics from brands like Longines and Rolex Cellini, the Bambino brings this retro styling into the 21st century with a larger dial diameter and an automatic movement. The best part about this watch is obviously the price, but that’s also not to say that you’re not getting the high level of quality and originality that most people expect when it comes to Orient watches.

The gripe that everyone has with the Bambino when they get it is the fact that you can’t easily change the strap, due in no small part to the fact that Orient chose 21mm, rather than the more common 20 or 22mm for the lug width. That means you’ll have to be that much more careful when sourcing an aftermarket strap. Another limitation that comes with the dress watch territory is that the Bambino has no lume, which isn’t a huge issue, but just something to consider. Finally, the Bambino, for all its retro styling, is a little large for purists who want something that has the full look of the mid-20th century watch.

Longines is possibly one of the most important watch brands in existence, older than many of the popular brands out there, to include Rolex. The fact that Longines is still going strong today is a testament to its ability to make some of the best watches available with the artisanal touch that people will pay double and triple to get from other brands. Longines dress watches, in particular, are some of its best offerings because they’ve remained relatively unchanged since their early to mid 20th-century introduction, save for getting slightly bigger. The Longines Record collection is a chance to own a piece of real horological history, and that’s something that’s hard to put a price on.

The Longines Record Collection automatic is as purebred of a dress watch as it gets, not trying to blend in sport watch, chronograph, or dive functions. This is aided by the retro styling, minute details, and a movement that has a special trick up its sleeve. The Longines Record collection is an officially-certified wrist chronometer, meaning that this watch is guaranteed to operate between minus four to plus six seconds per day at maximum. You can even see the beautifully decorated movement through the case back. This movement drives blued steel hands that sweep over a paper-texture dial, giving this watch a simple beauty that’s no less impressive than the movement that beats inside. Best of all, the watch is understated and slim, hugging the wrist with a 10mm thickness that will slip under any shirt cuff. The result ends up looking like any other dress watch, except you know better.

Bafflingly, Longines opted to take a page out of Orient’s book with its Bambino, and give this watch an uneven strap width of 19mm. Not that the stock straps are bad, per se, since Longines includes a very flexible and soft leather strap, but many users want variety, and being able to match the leather of your strap to the leather of your shoes is important, especially for a dress watch. Like the Bambino, it’s also fairly large for a classic dress watch at 40mm, so that’s an issue mostly for purists. Again, the Record Collection dress watch also lacks any sort of lume, so don’t be surprised when your dress watch doesn’t work the same as your dive watch.

Chronograph watches are a great choice, owing to their connection with things like car racing and space travel, and the movies that depict both. Seiko, in particular, has had a hand in both of those, with its Speed-Timer being one of the most popular chronographs of the mid-20th century, and its “Pogue” being one of the watches to travel into space with the crew of Skylab. Now in 2023, Seiko is back with a Speedtimer that doesn’t resemble a Speed-Timer at all. It’s a Speed-Timer in name only, but it’s a fairly competent watch, and it’s a great option for anyone who wants a classically-styled chronograph.

Seiko’s decision to make this watch carry the “Speedtimer” name is a controversial one, especially since it more readily resembles a Rolex Daytona, but what matters is that it’s a precise watch that’s a good sign for Seiko. The choice of sapphire crystal is excellent, given that Seiko held on to its proprietary mineral “hardlex” crystal for arguably too long. It’s also a precise chronograph, being powered by a Seiko VK-series “Mecha-quartz” solar movement that preserves the gradual ticking of a mechanical watch for the chronograph seconds hand without the cost or imprecision of its spring-powered brethren. It’s also a black chronograph watch with a relatively small dial diameter, meaning that it’s got a look that’s proven popular for decades, and isn’t likely to go out of style anytime soon.

The biggest advantage of this new Speedtimer is also its biggest drawback for some people, and that’s the choice of movement. Solar-powered quartz isn’t the first choice for notoriously anal-retentive watch snobs, and almost inevitably, someone’s going to ask if you’re wearing a Daytona, and then revert to “it’s only a Seiko.” The bracelet is also not impressive, with brushing that doesn’t quite match the case, and imprecise polishing on the edges. Thankfully, it’s easy to replace, and I love this one on a Rally strap. Finally, there’s a bit of a question as to why this was called a “Speedtimer.” There’s no resemblance to the classic model, and instead of recreating the mechanical original with a more precise solar movement, they instead put that name on a Rolex Daytona lookalike and added an aged lume, which doesn’t work nearly as well as the Lumibrite that Seiko is famous for.

The Sugess 1963, aka the Sea-Gull 1963, aka the Tianjin Watch Factory 1963, aka the HKEd 1963, is the blatant Chinese watch that watch nerds like me love. By all accounts, watch nerds should hate it, considering it’s a completely ahistorical watch that comes out of a country that’s associated with cheap goods and inferior workmanship. Except the thing is, the Sugess 1963 is none of those things. It’s a well-made, beautifully-styled, and completely charming watch that wears “China made” with pride, and for a good reason.

The Sugess 1963 is based around the Sea-Gull ST19 Chronograph movement, which is a licensed copy of the 1940s Venus 175 chronograph movement. Consequently, the 1963 is a column-wheel mechanical chronograph that runs off real mechanical power. There’s almost no other way to own a mechanical chronograph at this price point, and given how charming the 1963 is, there’s almost no reason. This watch looks like what it is, a military-style mid-century watch, and when you consider the champagne dial, gold indices, fishbowl case style, red seconds hand, and blue hour and minute hands, they all come together to create something that’s harmonious and beautiful while still looking utilitarian. Perhaps best of all, in my estimation, this watch embraces the fact that it’s Chinese. There are so many watches out there that are made in China, but put some fake Swiss or Italian names on them to sound more western, and I appreciate the honesty.

Unfortunately, not everyone is going to see it that way, and a lot of people are going to turn up their noses at the Chinese red star on the dial. The chronograph pushers are also not the easiest to use, and that comes with the territory of such an old movement, so you’re left with pushers that operate with a sort of “ka-chunk” when you press them to start the stopwatch. Finally, despite this watch’s alleged military heritage, there’s no luminescence whatsoever, meaning that this thing is next to useless in the dark.

Moonwatch. That’s it. That’s the review. The Omega Speedmaster is arguably THE chronograph watch, and one of the top watches for men beating out Rolex, Bulova, and Hamilton to be the watch that astronauts took to the moon. This is for a good reason, given that Omega has cemented itself as a quality watchmaker for centuries, and it nailed the right balance of Swiss quality without the supply chain issues of Rolex. This is a popular choice for military officers (hey, Major Rosenblatt, sir) and racecar drivers alike, and is as much a practical tool as it is a status symbol.

Everyone wants to be the Omega Speedmaster. Seiko, Rolex, Bulova, and countless others have copied the three-register black dial chronograph with white lettering, because of the success of this watch. You’re not just buying a watch, you’re buying a piece of history. This is backed up by the fact that countless service members have worn the Omega Speedmaster on crucial missions, trusting it to keep time while pulling high-G turns in the air, or orbiting the Earth in space. But it’s not just a functional watch, it’s also a gorgeous one, with selective polishing on the edges of the case, alternating brushed and polished links in a five-link bracelet, and a black ceramic bezel that sets the dial off nicely. To top it off, it’s got a water resistance of 100m, which means that barring scuba divers, this watch is one that never has to leave your wrist.

The Speedmaster once again follows suit with Orient and Longines, and features an uncommon 19mm lug width. Why this is, I have no clue, but here we are in the year of Our Lord 2022 with companies acting like this is okay. The Speedmaster is also a thick watch, owing to the extra gears needed to run the chronograph functions, which means that it’s not a watch that will wear well under a shirt cuff. Finally, this watch just doesn’t have an incredible amount of lume, which isn’t a crazy issue, considering that it’s not a dive watch, but I prefer the tritium that the older Speedmasters had, especially for military purposes.